The ocean calls to us in whispers and waves. Its vastness humbles us in the best way—a quiet reminder that we are part of something infinite and interconnected. It is both unknowable and constant, forever shifting yet always there—a permanent force in perpetual motion. With quiet certainty, it transforms everything it touches, polishing even the roughest edges into something smooth, something luminous.
Pearls are luminous organic gems. Born from the sea, they carry its quiet power. I have always loved pearls, but my love for them deepened when I learned how they form. A single grain of unwanted sand gets trapped inside a mollusk shell; through time and layers of nacre it is transformed into something remarkable. Pearls are a lesson in grace. A reminder that beauty is often born from adversity.
As I secure south sea pearl studs into my ears, I feel it: the stillness, the serenity, the connection to something larger than myself. Jewelry has a way of tethering us to memory, to meaning, to identity. Pearls, more than any other gem, feel like a reflection of who we are and who we are becoming—layer by layer, shimmer by shimmer, wave by wave.
Pearls can even feel a bit mysterious. As a gemologist and jewelry expert, I have created this guide to demystify them—so you can wear your pearls with clarity, confidence, and joy.
Inheriting Pearls: How to Identify What You Have
At least one of my grandmothers wore pearls—maybe yours did too. If you’ve inherited a pair or a strand of these ocean heirlooms and find yourself wondering whether they’re real or what they’re worth, this guide will help you identify them—and know when it’s time to seek a professional opinion.
Pearls often carry deep emotional weight, connecting us to the women in our lineage. In fact, the sentimental value of inherited pearl pieces is often greater than their monetary worth. Unless branded by a marquee designer, paired with diamonds, or of exceptional quality, most vintage pearl necklaces are worth a few hundred dollars at most.
Before we talk valuation, let’s explore how to identify heirloom-quality pearls—and how to tell if yours are real or faux.
Natural vs. Cultured vs. Imitation Pearls
If you’ve been gifted or inherited pearls, the first step is identifying what kind of pearls you have. Natural vs. Cultured vs. Imitation
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Natural pearls are rare, formed without human intervention. They’re typically found in high-end antique jewelry and often come with lab certification.
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Cultured pearls are real pearls formed with human help—by inserting a bead or tissue into a mollusk to initiate nacre formation. Today, most real pearls are cultured.
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Imitation (faux) pearls are made of glass, plastic, or resin, usually found in costume jewelry. These are lightweight, often have an orange peel-like texture, and may show flaking or wear near the drill holes.
Quick tests:
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Weight: Faux pearls feel lighter.
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Texture: Rub two pearls together—real ones feel gritty from the layers of nacre; fakes feel smooth and plasticky.
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Color: Unnaturally bright or dyed colors often indicate lower-quality cultured pearls.
Look for Clues in the Metal
The metal used in the jewelry can reveal a lot:
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Check for stamps like 14K, 18K, 750, or platinum markings. Higher-value metals often accompany higher-quality pearls.
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Look at clasps and settings. Are the jump rings soldered shut? Is the workmanship detailed and durable?
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Smell test: Brass (used in costume jewelry) may have a metallic, penny-like scent.
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Designer marks: If you spot a hallmark, reverse image search it online for more information.
Even with 18K or platinum settings, remember: most pearls—vintage or modern—are cultured.
Identifying Pearl Varieties
Unless you have lab paperwork, assume a pearl is either cultured or faux. Even pearls in designer jewelry are nearly always cultured. Cultured pearls may be grown in freshwater or saltwater, with saltwater varieties generally commanding higher prices.
Types of Saltwater Pearls
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Akoya (4–9 mm): Classic white pearls with mirror-like luster and overtones of pink, blue, green, or violet.
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Tahitian (8–12 mm): Dark body color with bright overtones; typically round and dramatic.
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South Sea (10–18 mm): The largest and rarest, these pearls are bright white or saturated golden with soft overtones.
Freshwater Pearls (2–10 mm, occasionally larger):
More common, with a wide variety of shapes and colors. Usually have a softer luster and are less expensive.
Buying Pearls: What to look for
Whether you're investing in your first strand or buying pearls to pass down, quality matters. Here are the five core pearl value factors (much like the 4Cs of diamonds):
Luster
This is the glow. High-quality pearls have a sharp, mirror-like reflection. Dull or chalky surfaces are considered lower quality.
Surface Quality
Look for minimal blemishes or pits. Some natural texture is expected, but smooth surfaces with fewer marks yield higher value.
Shape
Round pearls are the most prized and expensive. That said, baroque or irregular shapes have a unique, organic beauty all their own.
Color
Pearls come in a wide range: classic white, cream, pink, silver, golden, and even black or peacock green. Choose what resonates with your skin tone (you can read my guide to selecting jewelry for your skin tone here) and style.
Size
Measured in millimeters, larger pearls are rarer and more valuable—especially when matched evenly in a strand.
Wearing and Caring for Pearls
Pearls are organic gems, which means they’re more delicate than gemstones. A few golden rules will keep them glowing for generations:
Care Tips:
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Last on, first off: Perfume, hairspray, lotion—all of it should go on before your pearls.
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Wipe after wearing: Gently clean with a soft cloth to remove oils and sweat.
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Store flat: Avoid hanging strands, which can stretch the silk thread. Keep them in a soft pouch or cloth-lined box.
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Restring regularly: If you wear your pearls often, restring them every 1–2 years to prevent breakage.
The New Wave: Contemporary Pearl Designers
Pearls aren’t just for classic strands anymore. Here are a few of my favorite modern pearl designs available on the secondary market:
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Sophie Bille Brahe – Sienna Drop Earrings
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Completedworks – Nimbus Earcuff
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KatKim – Earpin
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Mizuki – Drop Earrings
Final Thoughts: Choosing Pearls That Reflect You
Whether you’re honoring family history or curating your own legacy, pearls are more than just jewelry—they're symbols of softness, strength, and a connection to something greater and unknowable. With their quiet glow, pearls seem to reflect back to us the memories they've absorbed.
Need help identifying a strand, choosing the right piece, or redesigning an heirloom? I’d be honored to help. Pearls are meant to be worn, not hidden away.
