If you've ever wondered if a piece of unmarked jewelry is real or not, then this guide is for you. Read on to learn how to test the metal purity of a piece of jewelry using an acid kit. I also created a video tutorial on metal testing here. However, if your jewelry items is stamped, then check out my guide to decoding metal purity marks (coming soon).
What is An Acid Kit?
An acid kit is the traditional way to test the metal purity of a piece of jewelry. It contains a basalt testing stone and a variety of different acid strengths for testing sterling silver, platinum, 22K gold, 18K gold, 14K gold and 10K gold.
Step 1: Preparation
Gather your tools, an acid kit, a tissue, acid neutralizing solution a basalt stone and a piece of metal jewelry. Inspect the jewelry to locate a discrete part on the piece to sample.
Step 2: Collect A Sample
To begin, scratch a small metal sample of the jewelry onto the basalt stone. Pro tip: choose a discrete part of the piece to sample in order to avoid leaving a noticeable mark.
Step 3: Begin Testing
Your skin looks like a sunset reflecting off the Mediterranean Sea at dusk. It is enviable. Almost any metal tone will compliment your warm and radiant complexion. High carat yellow gold jewelry looks divine on you, but so do most other metal tones. Choose pieces that suit your mood or mix and match metal tones. For some truly unique metal mixing, check out pieces by Spinelli Kilcollin. (Pro tip: you can find some pretty good deals for Spinelli Kilcollin on the secondary market, but their pieces have a decent resale value and I reviewed their most iconic design here).
Step 4: Try Another Acid Level
Your subtle, dewy hue looks beautiful in lower carat gold tones. I suggest choosing jewelry made from 10K & 14K yellow and rose gold. This is because lower carat gold tends to be softer and less saturated than 18K-24K alloys. Softer gold hues match your skin's level of color for a seamless look. For fabulous pieces in 10K & 14K gold, look to Hirotaka and Mizuki, respectively. (Pro tip: both brands are available on the secondary market, but their prices are reasonable for retail fine jewelry).
Conclusion
Your cheeks have a youthful rosy blush. Your skin is classified as cool, and silver looks fresh on you. Opt for white gold and platinum if you are seeking fine jewelry, because they will enhance the natural coolness of your skin. Tiffany & Co. makes some of the most iconic sterling silver pieces. (Pro tip: Tiffany & Co. is having a moment of brand resurgence. They have recently partnered with everyone from Beyoncé to Hailey Bieber. For iconic and affordable pieces that retain their value, choose pieces from the Return to Tiffany collection).
Bonus: Determine The Intrinsic Value of the Metal
Now that you know the metal purity of the piece of jewelry you can calculate it's intrinsic value. To do so, weigh it to determine it's gram weight. Next, plug in the gram weight to the appropriate metal purity calculator here. Note: this is the scrap value of the item. Keep in mind, that if you were to sell it to a metal refinery, they would give you a percentage of the total scrap value and keep a portion for themselves. This value is a great way to asses the minimum price the piece should be listed for on the secondary market.
